Unfinished Furniture 101

You saved a lot of money by buying unfinished furniture. But an even greater pleasure awaits: you get to finish it the way you want. Don't think of it as a chore, but as a relaxing hobby. You'll likely end up with a far superior finish than the commercially applied, sprayed on ones. Wood finishing is like cooking, always best when done slowly, with love and care. Ready . . . You bought a lovely piece of unfinished furniture. Now what? Head to the hardware store and introduce yourself to the person standing around the paints and varnishes, probably an expert who will give great advice. Know before you go whether you will be finishing pine or oak. If you don't know, pick the furniture up. If you throw your back out, it's oak.

Get stain to enrich your wood grain. It come in various colors; just pick your favorite. Next, a sealing coat. Varnish (satin or gloss) and tung oil (flat) are the easiest to apply. You'll need a few sheets of sandpaper (150 and 300 grit), a few rags, a good paint brush for varnish, and a drop cloth to protect your floors. Rubber gloves are a must. If you see tack cloth, get a small package for your final finish work.

Set . . .

Your unfinished furniture is probably pre-sanded, but go over it anyway with your 150-grit sandpaper to clean and smooth the surface. Wipe or vacuum the dust. Stretch out your drop cloth in a ventilated room or garage (not someplace dusty or windy). Give your can of stain a good long shake, and you're ready to&

Go!

Brush on the stain or rub it in with a rag, it's your preference. Apply it generously along the grain. Let it soak in according to directions, but don't let it dry before you rub off the excess with another rag, this time working across the grain. You'll be surprised at how beautiful it already looks! If it's a big piece of furniture, work in sections. Let it dry, then decide whether to do another coat to darken it more.

Finishing in tung oil is a snap. Following label directions, rub on a thin layer with a rag. Let it dry a day or two, and apply another coat. Go slow, relax, and keep adding layers until you feel the wood has absorbed all it's going to. Pine soaks up a lot more than oak.

If you prefer varnish, the trick is to use a quality brush, very lightly. Stir (never shake) the varnish in a figure-8 pattern to avoid creating bubbles. Apply a thin coat, brushing with the grain. While it's wet, lightly drag your brush the length of the furniture to smooth the coat. Avoid over-brushing it, and don't try to touch it up until it dries. Varnish will soak into the wood, leaving thin spots. No problem: that's what second- and third- coats are for. A light sanding between coats will help the new layer adhere. Use your tack cloth to remove dust before recoating.

It's normal for tiny bits of dust to settle on your final coat, leaving it feeling a little gritty. Wet sand it very lightly with your 300-grit sandpaper dipped in a little oil, then polish it smooth. Gorgeous!

Keep your leftovers

You probably won't use all your stain or varnish. Write on the can what piece you used it for and store it. When you get a big scratch on your lovely furniture, you'll be glad to have the original finish at hand.

So easy and satisfying, you're already thinking of your next piece of unfinished furniture, aren't you?